I'd recommend roughing up all the simulated wood parts before you build this kit. Trying to do it afterwards was a bit awkward and I was worried I'd break something. Fortunately, all went well and I started the painting by giving it an overall light coat of gray from a rattle can.
While the overpass was drying, I took the trimmed/modified/roughened trestle bents and taped them to a piece of cardboard to make them easier to handle. and sprayed them gray as well to start.
The pic above shows the colors I used for "staining" the pieces after the gray paint dried - a variety of browns, tans, grays, and - of course - black. My biggest challenge during this stage of the process way to try and not cover over everything. I ended up going back and forth between full coats of color before I figured that out(!)
I the paint booth was still on, I shot the bridge track with some flat brown paint (again, from a rattle can) and used a wood block to wipe off the rail tops before the paint dried too much.
While the bridge/trestle pieces were drying, I decided to make some abutments for the trestle. I'd vacillated between precast stone abutments and scratchbuilding wood or concrete abutments, but I finally decided to do what my friend Pieter did for the Goff Brook Bridge and hand carve some foam blocks to simulate stone block construction...
Once I thought it through, it was pretty straightforward - I eyeballed a top course (cap) of concrete and then used my exacto knife and a straightedge to score the lines, as you can see in the pic above.
| If you're going to be painting again later, you can save having to clean up and start over again if you use some plastic wrap to cover everything. |
I used a "concrete" (gray/tan) color to brush-paint the cap and then used a variety of browns for the stone blocks. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a close-up photo of the result, but you'll see the completed abutments in the next post when I build & install the trestle.
No comments:
Post a Comment