Proto 2000 Alco S-1 becomes New Haven DEY-3 (Alco S-1) #0967: Adding Details

 

First off, can I just say how great the latest version of Mike Redden's NHRR-specific low-profile cab is? I just got the new one from him today and, although I may have been able to live with the repair I did since it actually came out better than I expected, the latest version is just a bit beefier, without any noticeable sacrifice in detail. In fact, to my eyes, everything looks ever so slightly sharper. Granted, once it's painted and weathered, I'm sure there's no way I'll be able to discern a difference. But it even fits ever-so-slightly easier onto the P2k body. It's all just a testament to Mike's Continuous Quality Improvement (to borrow a phrase). You can check'em out for yourself on his website here.

* * *

I mentioned in my last build post, not to do as I did and just jump right into putting this model together (unless, of course, it's already together and you're now modifying it . . .) Best to do the major bodywork first. That's what we did last time and so, now that that's done, it's time to add the detail parts.

Thankfully, while there are no assembly instructions per se, the model does come with an exploded diagram that shows you where everything goes. And you should have at least a few photos of each side of your prototype to clear up any remaining confusion.

While relatively easy, and certainly enjoyable, the P2k model comes with a LOT of detail parts - so it takes time. So be sure to be patient and take your time. The undec version appears already to have a primer coat, so I used some small drill bits to ream out any mounting holes that needed reaming out - you don't want to force fit these parts - and I applied liquid styrene cement from the inside of the shell to affix the parts in place. The stack, engine covers and lift rings were the first to go on, figuring they'd be the sturdiest.

Next, I turned my attention to the MANY grab irons. And here's my main - if not only - PRO TIP regarding attaching the details  . . .

Make  certain you distinguish between hood end grabs and hood side grabs.

As you can see in the photo above, they are not the same. The end grab is the angled one on the top and the side grab is straight grab on the bottom in the pic. They're easy to mix up. Again, ask me how I know . . .

The rest of the details are pretty straight forward and easy to figure out - especially if you have prototype photos to help you along.

Thankfully, even though I added all the hood details BEFORE I did the major bodywork, drilling, etc., they were more robust and sturdier than I expected and I didn't break any of them in the process. Thankfully.

But if I were to do another one of these, I'd definitely go about it the other way around. And that's the main reason I'm posting about this build - so you don't make any of the mistakes I did :^)

Next time, we'll add the details that Proto 2000 didn't - one that's NHRR-specific, and one they should have added in the first place.

Hope you're enjoying this build - and the fact that I'm posting a bit more on the blog. If so, drop a comment! Seeya next time!

Word(less) Wednesday #462 - Cab broken & Repaired

 

Broke in 4 pieces

I'm getting a new cab since this is a signature Valley Local engine, but decided to try my hand at repair. Came out pretty good - so looks like I have a viable backup now...

Proto 2000 Alco S-1 becomes New Haven DEY-3 (Alco S-1) #0967: Bodywork

It's been almost a month since my last substantive post, but despite how busy it's been at work I've actually managed to make a bit of progress on a few fronts. The "Wordless Wednesday" posts provide some clues: I finished repairing one of Bill Maguire's structures that I'll be using in Middletown, actually made some more progress in Middletown itself, and even got back to - and actually finished(!) installing DCC/Sound in DERS-2b #529 (Alco RS-3) - which had been languishing since early last December.

Speaking of languishing, last week's WW post, give you a hint about what I'm back to working on now (in case the title of this post itself didn't do it for you :^)  Yes, after first starting on the #0967 way back in August of 2021, it wasn't until April of 2023 that I actually converted this Proto 2000 S-1 model to DCC/Sound. Be sure and click here for how I did that (it wasn't exactly "DCC Ready").

Then it's taken me another year to get back to the actual model. But now I have the bit between my teeth and am looking forward to getting this one off of the bench and onto the layout.

If you're starting with an undecorated model as I did, it's really tempting to just start adding the details. BUT decide early on whether you're going to need to do any major body work to match your prototype and do that first. Otherwise, you risk damaging those delicate details. Ask me how I know...

While not a "delicate detail", per se, I got about 10 minutes into this project when I managed to damage the beautifully done, resin printed, NHRR specific low-profile cab I'd gotten from Mike Redden over at New England Model Works.

OOPS!

Mike's not only a VERY talented maker of 3D products (be sure to check out his website), but he's also a great guy. He saw when I posted this photo on the Valley Local Facebrook Group and a replacement cab is already on its way! Of course, this cab is the major spotting feature of the New Haven's DEY-3 and DEY-5 (Alco S-2) switchers. Thankfully, these cabs are now one-piece, but be sure to check out my DEY-5 build to see how I put together his original 5 piece flat kit (and for more details on that build, using an Atlas S-2).

So while waiting for that, and since I'd already "messed up" the model, I figured I'd tackle the other bodywork %^)

I warmed up by filling in the bell hole.

Unlike the P2K model, the New Haven's S-1s had their bells mounted under the running board. Fortunately, correcting the model is a simple matter of gluing in the bell. . .

Then snipping it off and sanding/filing smooth. Of course you could also use styrene rod or other body filler, but I figured this was easier.

Another easy "body work" thing to do was to drill out around the radiator fan:

The speaker will be located right under here and there'll be a louvered cover over it (more on that later), so I figured I'd let more sound out. Everything around the fan will be painted black and the blades will be painted silver/grey.

With the easy bits out of the way, I ginned myself up to tackle the major body work - narrowing the radiator shutters.

The first 40 DEY-3s delivered to the New Haven (numbered #0931-0970, and delivered in 4 batches from 1941-1944) had 24 narrow vertical radiator shutters set in a thin frame with a shallow protrusion. This was in stark contrast to the later DEY-3s and DEY-5s which had the shutters we're more familiar with on the Alco S-1s and S-2s. (for MUCH more detail and prototype information on the New Haven's S-1s and S-2s, be sure to check out this post).

Here's the "typical" radiator shutters - 11 louvers, and sticking out from the sides:

Unfortunately, nobody makes a model of the S-1 with the narrow/shallow shutters. Fortunately, Mike Redden does - NE Model Works to the rescue again!

But first, I had to remove the original shutters . . .

I started by drilling out as much material inside of the frame as I could . . .

. . . using a Dremel, a foot pedal to regulate the speed, and a regular drill bit.

Then I used a combination of *sharp/new* X-Acto blade and nippers to remove the remaining louver material.

Next, I removed the frame itself using a combination of flush-cutting nippers . . .

. . . and a narrow chisel, being very careful not to remove the rivets around the outside of the frame.

Finally, I used a sanding stick to gradually remove the material around the inside of the hole until the new shutters fit snugly and without any gaps showing.

As I mentioned, these parts are available from NE Model Works (click here)

If you compare the photo above to the previous similar view, you can tell the difference. Heh - or you may just decide to model an S-1 that has the "typical" radiator shutters.

But since the 0967 was the first diesel used on regular service on the Valley Local (pictured above, southbound at Fernwood Street in Wethersfield, CT May 1949, John Wallace photo), I didn't really have a choice - I have to model the 0967 accurately. Naturally.

That's enough for now - next time I'll cover the fan housing, provide a water fill cap that the otherwise superb P2k model inexplicably missed, and scratchbuild a mount for the whistle (yes, whistle - the NH didn't use no obnoxious horns on it's early switchers...)

Till later . . .

Wordless Wednesday #462 - Next Project

 

Wordless Wednesday #461 - "Leased" Power on Bob Murphy's Layout

 

Wordless Wednesday #460 - The Week’s Progress

 

This is getting a little ridiculous - and a Tuesday Tip

My last actual update was way back on January 18 - before the big Springfield/Amherst show. Since then, all I've posted have been photos - and even those haven't been posted so often. I've missed more than a few Wordless Wednesdays along the way.

Unfortunately for this blog, the Valley Local Facebook group is much easier to post to. And even that has suffered these past couple of months due to a variety of things including the before and aftermath of the Springfield show, coming down with COVID, the start of my legislative session, helping a friend dismantle his layout, and having the basement flood. But not all of you are on Facebook, so you haven't seen any of those updates.

As for the layout, I have managed to do some more scenery in Saybrook - including installation of some walkways, finally finished the Sunset Diner in Cromwell - including a sign, and I ripped out and redid the scenery at Camp Bethel.

The last post in pictures showed all that, as well as the mocking up I'm doing in Middletown, and some photos of Pete's layout demolition. That last post is from over a month ago. For the last two weekends since then, I've been dealing with the basement flood and cleanup. Fortunately, the layout wasn't damaged.

I guess all this is by way of some excuse explanation for why the blog has suffered. I just don't have the time right now to keep up with it as regularly as I'd like. And what time I do have, I'd rather spend working on the layout rather than writing about it. Hopefully this'll change for the better when my time frees up after May 8 . . .

In the meantime, I will try to post here when I can share something quick and especially helpful - like window glazing. . .

I discovered a building I'd received some time ago from Bill Maguire had some windows that needed "glass." They're really nicely done windows - with top and bottom sashes on different planes, like the prototype. So, instead of cutting two little pieces of clear styrene really precisely per window (otherwise there would have been a gap between the "glass" and the lower sash), I decided to use some Microscale Micro Kristal Klear for glazing. I applied it with a toothpick around the edges of each opening, and then "pulled" it across the opening to basically create a bubble that covered the opening.

Then I set them aside to dry, face up. . . 

That ended up being a HUGE fail since the glazing oozed down to the work surface, essentially gluing the windows to the bench. Fortunately, I realized my mistake in time to pull up the windows and redo the glazing.

This time, I had them dry face down . . .

I'm pretty pleased with how they came out - especially when compared to the time it would have taken to cut up 12 little squares of styrene. If the sashes were on the same plane, I could have just gotten by with one large piece of styrene - not precision cut to fit - per window. But this process is quick enough.

If you try this technique, here are some Pro Tips:

• Use the point of a toothpick to apply with some precision.
• Apply to the back so you don't get any (or only little) material on the front.
• Don't be bashful about the amount of material you use, just don't use so much you goop it all over the window. The material does shrink a bit when drying, so you need enough to be able to "pull" it over the entire opening.
• Let the windows dry face down and/or on wax paper so they don't stick to the surface you're drying them on.

As they say, your mileage may vary, but I like this technique enough that I plan to use it in the future - unless/until I find some pre-cut microscope glass that'll fit :^)

Let me know if you try out the Kristal Klear and what you think about it.

And thanks also for sticking around. Unlike Facebook, I have no idea how many folks actually read the blog anymore, so it's good to know that you're out there.

In the meantime, I hope to make some more progress on the layout - and hope to have more time to share it with you here!

Till later...

Wordless Wednesday #459: Regress & Progress