Off the left of the "Somerset" module, there had been a long dead-end track representing the mainline to New Haven/New Haven staging which also acted as a switching lead for the south/west/left end. When I started the benchwork for the "west end" of the Shoreline loop, I needed to get this track out of the way. Here's how I put it back in - and much better-er....
|This is the view looking the other way, with the 2' level showing where the track would go. At this point I was just going to terminate the track in the corner there, much like it had been before.|
|My handy-dandy "easement tool" - just a narrow strip of masonite - clamped onto the tangent line and curved naturally toward the corner. Makes for a beautiful and very realistic "easemented" curve.|
|View looking the other way.|
|Detail of how I got the masonite to stay in place on the tangent while I traced the line. I clamped wood as long as the tangent on either side of the strip and held it in place with a weight (drill).|
|Here's the wall once I punched through, a plywood curve template, and the "easement tool" ready to be placed. You can probably tell that I long-ago got over my phobia of cutting through walls. A drywall saw makes this quick work.|
|Back to the beginning: supporting the subroadbed at the module end. That piece of plywood on top of the riser is my "subroadbed template" to insure I secured the riser at the correct height.|
|Once the first riser is in, it's a (fairly) simple matter of mocking up the rest of the risers using clamps and levels.|
|Once the risers were clamped at the correct height, it was time to do the actual centerline tracing on the subroadbed. Here I've clamped my easement tool to the tangent line and started tracing.|
|Overall view of the easement tool clamped to the subroadbed and to the minimum (24") radius curve template which goes through the wall.|
|Detail of how I clamped the masonite at the other end.|
I wanted to save the 24" radius plywood I was using as a template, so I clamped the masonite to it only to 1) confirm that a 24" radius curve would work here, and 2) to insure that the rest of the reverse/S curve would fall correctly. Note I still have about 6" to go before I get to the door opening. I'll be sure to add that to the final subroadbed I cut out and use here.
The next step is to cut out the subroadbed according to the centerlines. Stay tuned!